Day 4: Lake District, William Wordsworth and The Daffodils

Today’s Walk: Grasmere to Patterdale (09/August)

Daffodils

I wandered lonely as a cloud

That floats on high o'er vales and hills,

When all at once I saw a crowd,

A host, of golden daffodils;

Beside the lake, beneath the trees,

Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.

Continuous as the stars that shine

And twinkle on the Milky Way,

They stretch'd in never-ending line

Along the margin of a bay:

Ten thousand saw I at a glance,

Tossing their heads in sprightly dance.

The waves beside them danced; but they

Out-did the sparkling waves in glee:

A poet could not but be gay,

In such a jocund company:

I gazed -- and gazed -- but little thought

What wealth the show to me had brought:

For oft, when on my couch I lie

In vacant or in pensive mood,

They flash upon that inward eye

Which is the bliss of solitude;

And then my heart with pleasure fills,

And dances with the daffodils.

William Wordsworth (1804)

During my school days I used to hate poetry – simply because the teachers insisted that I had to learn those poems “by-heart” and reproduce word by word during exams (which I was bad at). Of course there were mathematical and scientific formulas which also had to be remembered and reproduced in its entirety ; anyway there were no choice for formulas, but there were tricks to remember them! As I hated poetry I put an extra effort to un-learn after the exams. For everything else other than poetry, you just need to remember the key points and then you can reproduce it in your own words (which I was good at). In spite of all the hatred toward poetry, I still remember a few of them - at least some part of it – and Daffodils is one of them, because I could visualize a host of golden daffodils, beside the lake, beneath the trees, fluttering and dancing in the breeze.

A few years back when I visited Lake District with my family, I saw in real life what Wordsworth said, and it was much more beautiful that what I thought. This time there were not many – Daffodils bloom during spring season and not in the fall.

Lake District in the North West is one of the most scenic spots in England – the other being Cotswold. Lake District is a part of the largest of British National Parks (or is it the other way?), and is famous for its beautiful and exotic scenery. National Geographic picked this as one of the must visit 50 places in your lifetime. The hills and mountains (why a hill or mountain is called a “fell” in this part of the world?) rise from sea level to heights of over a kilometre (not difficult as climbing Everest, but more difficult that climbing Bukit Timah, the highest point in Singapore – 150 meters), and are intersected by expansive landscapes often containing some of the most stunning lakes.

Everything one associates with the romantic notion of an English Country side is also there in the Lake Districts. Rolling meadows, grazing sheep and cattle (let me not describe in detail the not so romantic thing – sheep droppings) quaint villages besides beautiful lakes (many of them aptly named like Elterwater, Loweswater and Ullswater), expansive landscape, streams, rivers and wonderful inns and pubs – it is all here in the Lake District. And of course this is where the largest national park in England as well.

With the exotic mix of lakes and mountains (and mountains reflecting on the lakes), it is very natural that this beauty of the Lake Districts has inspired many poets and artists – William Wordsworth, John Ruskin, Beatrix Potter (of Peter Rabbit Fame – my son’s favourite), Shelly and Keats were some of them.

Like many other places in England, the most famous being Stonehenge near Salisbury, Lake District too has its own stone circle, the Castlerigg Stone Circle. I wonder what is with the prehistoric Englishmen and their love of erecting stone circles at very odd places!

It is also interesting to note that it is generally mentioned (where else, Internet) that William Wordsworth walked some 280,000 kilometres (175,000 miles) in his lifetime, mostly in the Lake District. Though it gives me great pleasure to know that the great poet was a “walker” like me, I think it is just a story as it is unlikely Wordsworth carried a pedometer to accurately measure it. It also works out to 9.5 kilometres of walk a day, for every single day of Wordsworth's 80 years on this earth. However I have to admit that it is still plausible. I have just covered 1,000 kilometres in 10 months, just 279,000 kilometres to go to beat Wordsworth’s record and I have 40 more years to do so…

Today’s Walk (Simple and straightforward, climb up a hill and climb down):

Last night the stay was at Ivy Dene, a very new bed and breakfast place in Grasmere, not even many locals knew where it was. Very nice and comfortable place, it is very small as well, probably could take only a couple of guests. A two storied house, the landlord occupied the lower floor and the two rooms on the top floor was rented out. Breakfast is served in the morning in the landlord’s dining room. And that sums up a bed and breakfast arrangement in the UK.

The only problem with Ivy Dean was it was on one extreme end of Grasmere. The pubs, hotels and all the touristy places are on the other end – which means a kilometre and a half of walk to the pub and then walk back the same distance after dinner. That was the last thing I wanted to do after a day of walking – but there was no other choice.

Being a popular place, Grasmere has many pubs and hotels – including some high end expensive ones (which all walkers tend to avoid). Went to Lamb Inn which a part of Red Lion hotel (one of the many Lions on the Coast to Coast route). Excellent ales and some ordinary food (which is the theme for most pubs in the UK).

Started very early next day. It is slightly drizzling and is somewhat cold – both nothing that I cannot handle after so many days of walk. As I lived on the extreme end of Grasmere there was a choice of taking a short cut by walking by the side of the A591 highway, but decided not to do so. Instead I back tracked to Goody Bridge and started the walk for the day. After all that was a much charming route instead of walking by the side of big vehicles whizzing past.

Then come the climb and after a tiring climb to the Great Tongue, one gets two options – a further climb towards the left via Little Tongue Gill or another climb via Tongue Gill! Strangely Little Tongue Gill seems to be tedious than Tongue Gill (some one needs to pay more attention when naming routes).

After the climb(ing up) for the day, on the way down is Ruthwaite Lodge, a stone house, where once Wordsworth’s poems were carved on a rock tablet there. There are many such stone houses on the way, some still in use, and some abandoned. The stone houses, mostly in the middle of no where, is an awe inspiring sight.

Walking by the Grisedale Beck (river) one doesn’t need to look at the maps anymore – the path to Patterdale is straightforward.

The walk of the day ends at the White Lion Pub - remember it ended yesterday at Red Lion Pub.

*NB: A few of the photos above were taken during my last trip with my family a couple of years back.

Resorts World Sentosa – A View From Inside

Had a quick walk inside Resorts World Sentosa today. Here are some snaps. Except for the hotels, it is work in progress. Construction is happening all over the place. Might take a while before everything is ready.

However from the first look, Resorts World Sentosa is going to be wonderful place for a break when everything is ready.

 

The first surprise came in when the Sentosa staff waived off the $6 entrance fee for the Taxi we took, even tough we told him we are not guests at the hotel.

The taxi ride was very smooth. After turning to Sentosa neat Vivocity (still constructions are on going at the entrance) and going around Universal Studios, in a couple of minutes we were at Resorts World Sentosa. The taxi driver mentioned that he had been to an “induction” at Resorts World Sentosa, but seems to be lost momentarily when we drove in. However very clear signs all over the place and one is unlikely to get lost.

 

A very noticeable things is that the staff are all well trained and very friendly. Looks like Resorts World Sentosa has put a special emphasis on customer service (which is sort of very rare in Singapore). Thumbs up for that.

I was expecting a huge crowd at Resorts World Sentosa – after all it is just a week old. Surprisingly there was only a reasonable crowd – even Vivocity across the bay had a much bigger crows. When we entered Sentosa the parking display board said that 1,200 card parks are available! I am guessing everyone is waiting for the Universal Studios (and Casino's) to open before going into Resorts World Sentosa.

The Casino is a couple of floors below the ground. One has to take two escalators down with surrounding illuminated with a futuristic blue and a series of TV screens showing colourful fishes swimming around. However just in front of the casino, there is natural light as well. There are electronic gates for the casino – never seen such an arrangements at other Casinos I have been to.

Even though constructions are all around the place, the four hotels that are open seems to be fully functional with hotel guests streaming in an out. The cafes and restaurants in the hotels are busy. Saw Minister Mah Bo Tan, Minister of National Development, at Resorts World Sentosa today.

A large number of high end shops are all around Resorts World Sentosa. Most well known brands are all there. Orchard Road is going to have serious competition. By the look of it, many of the shops are ready to open anytime. Few like Victoria Secret is already open.

Many might want to wait until Chinese New Year to go and see Resorts World Sentosa. However my suggestion will be to go in and have a look before it gets too crowded and thus get a in-depth and relaxed view of the place.

Standard Chartered Singapore Marathon 2009

22nd July 2009:
I get an invite for joining the Standard Chartered Singapore Marathon. All charged up preparing for the Coast to Coast Walk in UK, I decided to go for the full one.

09th September 2009:
My organization’s “Road Runner Co-Captain” gets worried and urges me to rethink. He gives me an option to downgrade to half marathon or 10K race. The thrill of completing the Coast to Coast walk (as well as ego) prevents me from doing it.

September to Mid-October:
Nothing done and no practice. Plans to start practice on 7th October, becomes lazy and postpones to the following weekend.

Second half of October:
Falls sick with a terrible chest infection and was bed ridden for a few days. And still no practice.

1st December to 4th December:
Panic kicks in. Even though chest infection is not fully gone, starts with short walks after office hours.

5th December, 8:00 AM:
Goes for a 4 hour 20 kilometer walk. Clearly legs are refusing to cooperate. Why did I let this happen?

5th December, 7:30 PM:
As I have to wake up at 3:00 AM tomorrow, goes to sleep early. Frequent nightmares during sleep.

6th December, 3:01 AM:
Alarm rings, jumps out of bed in panic. Realizes the D-day is upon me. Water heater doesn’t work. A cold water bath takes drains away whatever confidence and energy left.

6th December, 4:00 AM:
Taxi arrives. Driver is amused (putting it simply) that I am going for a full marathon this early in the morning.

6th December, 5:00 AM:
Arrives at the start point at Esplanade Bridge. Loads and loads of people are walking in. Everyone looks energetic (and well toned). Cool weather. Everything looks perfect for everyone (except me). Different sections for different abilities – people who can complete marathon in less than 3 hours, less than 4 hours, less than 5 hours. I join the last group, greater than 5 hours.

6th December, 5:30 AM:
Kick off. I am realizing 7,500 people running generate a lot of heat. The cool morning suddenly becomes a very hot an humid morning. I started walking slowly (yes, I decided to walk!) and get pushed to one side by the large number of eager runners. Starts walking in the foot path not to get run over.

3 kilometers:
After a U turn, I cross the start point (on the other side of the road). 3 kilometers in 25 minutes not bad!

5 kilometers:
Still walking through the main streets of Singapore (which is shutdown for traffic). I get to see places I haven’t ever seen in Singapore.

7 kilometers:
Hears the shout “100 Plus, 100 meters ahead”. What a nice marketing. 100 Plus is an isotonic drink (and I am assuming a co-sponsor)

8 kilometers:
Just crossed the lead runners (on the other side of the road) who are coming back. These folks have covered 34+ kilometers while I have just covered 8!

12 kilometers:
Walking through the East Coast Park is much more fun than walking on the roads. But sand keeps going into my shoes - which is very irritating. So I have to clean my shoes. Looking down for the first time, I started realizing my legs are paining.

15 kilometers:
Feeling hungry I eat a banana. Toss the banana skin carefully to one side. The whole route is littered with banana skins and water cups. Feels terrible about the student volunteers who are putting an extra effort in cleaning up the litter.

18 kilometers:
Who ever said that a marathon is “Mind over body” was exaggerating. It is just “Mind over Calf muscle”. Calf muscle is paining and started almost having muscle cramps. Eat another banana (potassium in banana is supposed to be good to avoid cramps). Knee also starts paining.

20 kilometers:
Still not half way though. Thigh muscles, calf muscles and heels are all paining. I am also wondering when my knee will give up. The only encouraging sign is that there are still people behind me!

21 kilometers:
What a relief. Half way though rather unceremoniously. A race official is happily snoozing off at the half way mark. The chip tied to the shoes beeps, ensuring that I have covered 22 km and did not cheat.

22 kilometers:
Gets a free Power Bar, an energy gel. The only thing noticeable was the not so good taste and a note which said it had too much caffeine. This stuff gives an amazing boost to your energy and starts walking faster and faster. The pains are forgotten.

25 kilometers:
Power bar boost is gone like a balloon that went bust. Pain returns with amazing vigor. It is also becoming very hot. Funniest thing – some are distributing hot dogs to marathon walkers! But I was hungry and I ate one! Anything to keep the mind away from the pain was welcome

27 kilometers:
Wife calls wondering why I haven’t come back. She is not very happy when I mentioned that I plan to walk the entire distance (and I did not believe I could do that)

28 kilometers:
Organizers step in the way and suggest the few of us (trailing few) stop walking as it is “too late” and the roads will open soon. They also carefully mention that last year “many people were admitted in the ICU”. Some panics, decides to stop walking, but for some of us, it was “having walked this far, I am not giving up”. We get warnings about “be careful about the traffic and don’t get hit”.

31 kilometers:
Out of East Coast Park and back on the main roads. Roads are half opened (just one direction) for traffic.

33 kilometers:
A boy jumps out from the corner saying “You are my hero. I would have died if I walked this long”. I am sure he was trying to motivate me – but suddenly words like “death”, “accident” and “faint” comes to my mind and doesn’t go away. The heat becomes unbearable on the main roads.
34 kilometers:
Crosses the National Stadium. A bus stops nearby and a guy gets out and says “You can get into the bus and we will drop you just before the finish line. And YOU WILL GET YOUR CERTIFIACTE”. The last part of the offer makes many of them get into the bus. Cheating…. Cheating… Suddenly there are only 3 or 4 people behind me.

37 kilometers:
Meets Chan, a 79 year old marathoner who has completed 18 already. Feels ashamed of myself and start moving faster along with him. Walking along with a person who is twice older than you is a better boost than the Power Bar.

39 kilometers:
We now have escort as we are the “final batch”. Half a dozen vehicles are behind us with all the light and sirens. A few of them behind me “falls off” (in fact one person just fainted and actually fell). Suddenly the prospect of being the last person to complete the marathon becomes a reality. No way would I let this happen. Started walking fast will all the energy left and managed to overtake a dozen people.

41.5 kilometers:
Can hear the music and noise at the finishing point. Very, very thrilled. An MC catches me, spells my name wrongly, and then praises me with hundreds watching. Not sure that I felt happy or sad!

Finishing line:
The clock flashed 8 hours 51 minutes but I should have taken lesser time. The clock started (I believe) when the first person crossed the start line. I was behind in the start line and would have started 3-4 minutes or so later.

Collects the medal and T-Shirt. The person who gave it to me wasn’t very comfortable when I told him I finished the marathon (I wonder why)! Goes to my company’s tent and found it empty. So heads back home.

I wasn’t the first or I wasn’t the last, but I completed my first full marathon!

T+1:
Every part of the body is paining. Strangely there is upper body pain also.

T+2:
Surprisingly pain is gone. Wondering whether it is really gone or will it make a comeback on day 3, like other runners mentioned. Also saw the timings on the website.

Day 2: Preparing for a Coast to Coast Walk

Today’s Walk: Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite (07/August)

Stayed at Fox and Hounds, Ennerdale Bridge. Rating Expensive rates (food at the restaurant also was expensive) and an average stay – together not a good combination. Co-walkers mentioned a nearby pub which offered accommodation as well was a much better and cheaper choice.

Before I describe today’s walk, let me start with my 8 step planning process for a Coast to Coast Walk.

Step 1: Find a reason

Everyone goes for a long walk for different reasons. Some does it for getting away from the rigors of life. Some does it to enjoy nature and explore new places. Some does it as an exercise. Some does it to loose weight. And some does to drinking all the beers that are available – like Dr. Steven Sullivan.

What is your reason?

Step 2: Check out your personality

What sort of a personality do you have and what sort of a holiday do you want? On one extreme are people who would you like to sit on the beach quietly and read a book. On the other extreme are the skydivers who needs the adrenaline rush. If you are neither one of this, and is in the middle, walking/ trekking may be for you. Here is a low strain activity (at least I thought so, but wasn’t the case), that helps you to enjoy new sceneries every minute of the walk (and meet a few like minded people each day). Last thirty minutes doesn’t look like the next thirty minutes (like being on a beach) and the fun doesn’t just last 30 seconds (like the skydiver).

      

Step 3: Look at the mirror (That’s where I started)

If walk for you means walking from your cubicle to the meeting room or from your car to the supermarket, Coast to Coast walk isn’t for you (yet). You need at least 3 months of preparation (don’t be disheartened – I needed 10 months of preparation). You must be physically prepared where you can walk 20 kilometres each day on a weekend for this walk. Make sure you have worn (“broken in”) your trekking shoes for a few weeks and there are no more cracked skins and blisters.

If you are a “good walker” you can easily cover the Coast to Coast walk 10 days - some one has run the whole distance in 36 hours! Ordinary mortals like me need 14 days. Some take 15 with a day break in the middle – after all you need time to wash your clothes and do a foot massage.

Despite all these advices which I am giving out like an expert, on day two of my walk all I can think is My Foot - it pains. Why did I get into this?

 

Step 4: Where to start (Look at Wainwright and Web)

In this 21^st century, there are a lot of web resources available to help you prepare for this trip. But every one should to start with Alfred Wainright’s book before anything else. Though the original book is many decades old, it has been refreshed to keep up with times (and ever changing landscape and land zoning rules). A very good amount of information is available in the web as well which is continuously being updated by walkers all around the world.

 

Step 5: When to Walk

Britain is defined as a country with Four seasons in one day! Even then try not to do this from November to March unless otherwise you are from the poles. It is way too cold. July and August are peak periods (but still there is too much of land area to make you feel lonely), so book the hotels in advance.

 

Step 6: Groupie or Solo

In a group of friends and family you find happiness and safety; being alone you finds solitude.

I would have loved to walk with my family. But until my kids grow up it is not going to happen. Yeah, my 5 year old son can walk 5 kilometres. After that I have to carry him (I tried it once).

 

Step 7: Accommodation

Here you have three choices:

1) A well planned trip with accommodation pre-booked is the safest option (like me)

2) Get accommodation on the fly when you reach a place which you like is for the courageous. However it is not advised during busy periods as all accommodation on route will be fully booked and you will sleep in the car park – if you can find the car park.

3) Carry your accommodation (tent) in your back pack is for the stronger ones. Camping sites are available on route for nominal fees. Enough wild space too is available!

I am sure I am not strong enough to carry heavy backpacks of 20Kgs and walk for two weeks or so - like some of the people I meet on the way – they make it look so easy. So I decided to use the Sherpa Van service for this (other services like packhorse is also available). Each day they move across my luggage from hotel to hotel (or more accurate Inn to Inn) for about £7. I just need to carry my backpack with essentials – Netbook and its cables, a notebook and some pens, a book to read, Vado HD, Digital Camera, extra memory for camera, extra power pack to provide juice for my phone, snacks, painkiller (just in case!) and water, water and more water.

 

Step 8: Plan your expenses

Expenses for this trip come in 6 forms:

1) Stuff to buy in preparation for the trip. This includes waterproof bags, rain coat, trekking shoes, compass, books, maps and other accessories

2) Airfare. Thanks to all those Frequent Flyer miles, I just paid taxes – which also costs as much as the price of a low cost air ticket!

3) Rail tickets. I definitely would recommend a 4 day Britrail England flexi-pass which allows 4 days of (unlimited) travel within 2 months. This allows me the following trips - Heathrow to London Paddington on Heathrow Express (day 1), Euston station in London to St Bees via Manchester (day 2), return to London from Robin Hoods bay (day 3), London to Heathrow airport (day 4). This pass works out much cheaper than the individual tickets and also offers much more flexibility (want to get down on the way and take a short break before continuing?).

4) Sherpa Van luggage mover service (£7 x 14 days) + Hotel booking service.

5) Accommodation charges – on an average £30 a night for a single en-suite (bathroom and toilet attached) room. Prices starts as low as £20 and can go up to £60. Directly paid at the hotels/ inns/ farm houses.

6) Food and drinks – typically come to £10 a stop. Breakfast is generally included (after all it is called B&B) as a part of accommodation

 

Day so far:

Last evening at the end of the walk, I met a couple of fellow walkers, Gary and Peter. It is astonishing how walkers form a quick bond among themselves even though they have never met before and know very little of each other. After all, there are only a few of them crazy enough to do such long walks, it is natural that they bond together. After a couple of beers, three of us, one from England, one from New Zealand and one from Singapore decide to walk together the next day.

Early morning we started from Ennerdale Bridge to reach Ennerdale Water which is the first of many lakes on the way. The first view of the lake itself is breathtaking and gives you an idea how beautiful would the upcoming walk in the Lake Districts be.

The walk along the south edges of the lake is tough, with some serious climbing on rocky tracks. But the beauty of the place takes your mind away from that effort. Somewhere near the highest point as you walk besides the lake, is the Robin Hood’s Chair, which is a rock that juts out.

Robin Hood’s Chair is just one of the many Robin Hood connections on the way (remember at the end of the walk is Robin Hood’s Bay!). There is even a Robin Hood’s Grave on the way. Folklore, mythology and walker’s imagination is a lethal combination and is not surprising such Chair’s and Grave’s exist.

After the climb down on the south end of the lake is River Liza. After crossing the river, and a long walk parallel to the river comes Black Sail Hut (Black Sail Youth Hostel).

In between very tall hills (or was it mountains?), Black Sail Hut lies in a dramatic location. Sitting down in front of the hill with a few other walkers and having a relaxed snack, I didn’t have a clue what the next few hours held for me. That was the good thing.

Then came the steepest and most dangerous climb of my life.

In absolute terms, it wasn’t a big climb, just 650 metres. In fact during the rest of the walk, I did climb even higher hills. But this being the first serious climb I wasn’t prepared for it.

For a while the climb is through randomly laid out rocky steps. Occasionally the track fades away and one needs to be careful about every step (and not to miss one).

Half way through the walk many things went wrong. Very strong and cold wind was hitting my face, while my body is overheating as I was wearing a thick jacket. Being the second day of my walk (and due to my inexperience) I had all sort of things in my bag. The weight wasn’t an issue on the first two days, but during this climb, it was a real issue; it was dragging me down. And the most terrifying part is that the climb was very steep and has no safety barrier. One wrong step and it is half a kilometre fall straight down from the hill and having fear of heights also did not help!

I was really stuck half way through. Too tired and terrified to climb up and absolutely now way to climb down. All of a sudden, ten months of practice meant nothing.

I came for a Coast to Coast Walk, and not a Coast to Coast Climb.

That’s when the amazing thing happened. Along from Gary and Peter, half a dozen walkers whom I haven’t ever met before today, was encouraging and motivating me to climb up further and further. Tips like “take the jacket off”, “sip a little bit water”, “don’t look down”, “breathe steadily; breathe in through your nose and breathe out thorough your mouth”, “you are almost there” came in quick succession. Gary even offered me to carry my shoulder bag. Within 45 minutes I am at the top!

The sense of achievement has never been greater. And the views of the sea shore at St. Bees from the top, though many miles away, was an adequate compensation for all the effort.

After a few smaller ups and downs comes the Honsiter Slate Mine still producing high quality slates. Then comes a steep climb to Longthwaite and a short gentle walk by the side of a small river to today’s destination, Rosthwaite.

A much delayed update

Is this blog dead?

Far from it – at least that is what I believe myself.

First the good news…

Over a month back I completed the Coast to Coast walk. I was religiously updating the blog for many months before the walk and for the first few days during the walk. I was so committed that I carried my Netbook in my shoulder bag during the long walks even though the extra 1 kilo weight of the Netbook made the walk more difficult. 

Now the bad news (plural)…

As the walk got tough, I took longer and longer than expected to finish the walk each day. Even after starting at around 8:00 AM each day, the walk completed around 6:00 to 7:00 PM most days even though my hope and plan was to complete before 4:00PM! . After the walk each day there was barely enough time to have a quick dinner and a few pints of beer (correction - there is always time for beer) and just crash! I was too tired to blog! WiFi connectivity became harder and harder to obtain. Many villages did not even have mobile signals so WiFi was too much to ask. As soon as I reached back London, my Netbook crashed (it is a long story, details to follow). So I decided to continue updates after I am back in Singapore.

However I landed in Singapore in the middle of a house renovation/ house move. Things were so much tougher than I thought initially. And of course there were boxes, boxes and more boxes to be packed and moved. A month and a house move and a family emergency later, things have stabilized and I will start the updates next week.

Though my memory is not very good, I took notes, pictures and videos diligently throughout the walk. So I am hoping I can recreate the lengthy journey in finer details even though it has been a while since I completed the walk.

Updates start next week.

Day 1: Real Start

Today’s Walk: St. Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

Stayed at Stone House Farm: Rating – Very Good

After the tiring walk followed by a wonderful sleep I was eagerly looking forward towards Day 1. Most places in the UK, where you stay, provide you with a big breakfast, typically what is called an English breakfast (also nicknamed Cholesterol on a plate) consisting of sausage, toast, bacon, eggs, beans (all with lots and lots of oil). There will also be fruits salad, cereals and yoghurt. Once you have it, you will need a few hours to recover before you can even move. So I skipped the English Breakfast that and just had some toast and coffee.

The stay at Stone House Farm was very good. They had all the facilities including an option to cook (none of which I used). This place is very next to the St. Bees station and thus wasn’t difficult to get the luggage to the place of accommodation. I would recommend this place to anyone who wants to stay at St. Bees. A couple of pubs and hotels are also very next to this place.

And now on to the walk. After retracing last days route back to the Village, I joined back the Coast to Coast trail.

Few steps later and has happened previously to me, the footpath disappears - but a board saying footpath is still there!
 

However the maps in the book I am following (by Terry Marsh) is excellent (though the markers on the path are not). The one below, written on a card board was facing the wrong direction and I realized it only after a few 100 metres.

The Terry Marsh book clearly shows all the landmarks and directions and has some high resolution maps which came in handy for me to find the right direction.

Around me everything looks picture perfect – I am in the middle of a a huge farm land with lots and lots of lambs and cows grazing with no worries and ignoring me totally (though this will not be the case in the coming days).

There is also railway line that goes across this field which I have to cross before I walk further. Here I hit my first snag. The map in the book and the real world doesn’t seem to match. There is no way to cross the line at the gate as it is locked. Am I supposed to jump over the gate? Or is there a way to open the gate?

With no one around for miles and now I realize decision making throughout this walk is going to be a tough task! Instead of jumping the gate, finally I decided that I will go a kilometre further away from my planned path, and cross the line through what looked liked a rarely used underpass. I am now half an hour behind schedule - not that I have anything urgent to do at Ennerdale Bridge.

On to Moor row, Cleator Moor and then on to Dent Fell.

Dent Fell became the first physically tiring part of the walk. It is a reasonably tall hill with a climb of reasonable inclination. As all my practices in Singapore was about climbing Bukit Timah, a hill that is 150 metres tall, Dent came in as a big shock. I had to really struggle to get on top of Dent (I had no clue it was many of such hills/mountains to come).

The descent from Dent posed another major challenge. With no laid out routes and with a very steep slope, simply put - it was frightening. One wrong step or one slip I will be going down a few hundred metres. This is not what I wanted to do.

Once Dent is covered, and after a long walk besides a stream it is the climb down to Ennerdale bridge.

And then at Ennerdale bridge, a pint of Ale is waiting at the Fox and Hounds, the pub where I would be staying.

 

After walking the first day alone, I was happy to meet a couple of fellow walkers – Peter and Garry – who will be with me for a few more days…

NB: This posting is a few days late – three reasons

1. WiFi is patchy and non-existent in some places
2. The walk took too long and I managed to reached my place of accommodation only after 6:00 PM (against my planned 4:00 PM)
3. I was too tired!

Day 0.5: Back in Time…

I have just realized that my mobile cannot get any signal as I left St. Bees for the circular walk. It is progressively getting worse as I moved away from St. Bees. I don’t even dare to ask for WiFi as I got come cold stares when I asked for it the first time.

I am editing this post offline - if you are seeing this post online I some how managed to get a patchy connection somewhere.

There goes my plan to post each days walk as it happened. See you in a few days.